i 495 accident In 1724 the Hyderabad viceroy, Asaf Jah, took advantage of waning Mughal power and declared Hyderaba

In 1724 the Hyderabad viceroy, Asaf Jah, took advantage of waning Mughal power and declared Hyderabad an independent state with himself as leader. The dynasty of the nizams of Hyderabad began, and the traditions of Islam flourished. Hyderabad became a focus for the arts, culture and learning, and the centre of Islamic India. Its abundance i 495 accident of rare gems and minerals the world-famous Kohinoor diamond is from here furnished the nizams with enormous wealth. (William Dalrymple s White Mughals is a fascinating portrait of the city at this time.)

4 Sleeping & Eating Hotel Ashoka HOTEL $$ (%2578491; Main Rd, Hanamkonda; r from 600; ai) Good-value rooms near the Hanamkonda bus stand and the 1000-Pillared Temple. Also in the compound are a restaurant, a bar-restaurant, a pub and the veg Kanishka (mains 75 to 125).

Masala INDIAN $$ (Signature Towers, 1st fl, Asilmetta; mains 60-180; h11.30am-3.30pm & 7-11pm) Near Sampath Vinayaka Temple, Masala does out-of-this-world Andhra, tandoori and Chinese. Try the chepa pulusu (Andhrastyle fish; 130).

Good what s on guides include Channel 6 (www.channel6magazine.com), GO Hyderabad and City Info. The juiciest is Wow! Hyderabad (www.wowhyderabad.com; 25). The Deccan Chronicle is a good local paper; its Hyderabad Chronicle insert has info on happenings.