eastbound and out Vijaya Lodge HOTEL $ (%2501222; fax 2446864; Station Rd; s/d from 150/240) About 100m from the train

You can also make your own way there from Hyderabad or Vijayawada. From Hyderabad, eastbound and out take a bus to Nagarjuna Sagar (from 85, four hours). eastbound and out From there, it s a 10 shared rickshaw to Pylon, and another 10 to the boat launch. The nearest train station is 22km away at Macherla, where buses leave regularly for Nagarjuna Sagar.

C Courses Dhamma Vijaya MEDITATION (Vipassana Meditation Centre; %08812-225522; www.dhamma.org; Eluru-Chintalapudi Rd) Offers intensive 10-day vipassana eastbound and out meditation courses eastbound and out free of charge in lush palm- and cocoa-forested grounds. The centre is 15km from Eluru; call for details.

Vijaya Lodge HOTEL $ (%2501222; fax 2446864; Station Rd; s/d from 150/240) About 100m from the train station, the Vijaya is well organised with helpful staff, but the rooms are becoming a little dreary.