520 toll bridge 5 Eating Lotus Food City INDIAN $$ (www.lotusthefoodcity.com; Seethanagaram; mains 80-150) Set up by

the Park hotel, out the back are tables in the sand on the edge of the beach where you can indulge in delicious spicy fried fish ( 120) and tiger prawns ( 160). It s also a great spot for a cold beer with ocean views and a big outdoor screen. 520 toll bridge It s an overwhelmingly male clientele, but isn t seedy like some Indian bars.

Chandrika Guest House (%9490430989; s/d 1000/1500), 2km from the station, is the most peaceful option with rooms looking out to fields, though it s overpriced. The Hill Resort Mayuri (%958936-249204; cottages from 650; a), near the museum, has cottages with good views. There s also a few uninspiring options around the station, otherwise you could try the forest retreat of Jungle Bells (Tyda; cottages from 800; a), 45km from Araku, with cottages tucked away in woods. Book at APTDC. You can sample the local coffee at Araku Valley Coffee House (h9am-9pm), next to the Museum of Habitat.

5 Eating Lotus Food City INDIAN $$ (www.lotusthefoodcity.com; Seethanagaram; mains 80-150) 520 toll bridge Set up by APTDC, this food complex 520 toll bridge has a lovely spot on the Krishna River where you can dine in or outdoors looking out to the shimmering water.