east united states map Hyderabad, City of Pearls, is like an elderly, impeccably dressed princess whose time has past. Once

910 STATE OF GOOD KARMA In its typically understated way, Andhra Pradesh doesn t make much of its vast archaeological and karmic wealth. But the state is packed with impressive ruins of its rich Buddhist history. Only a few of Andhra s 150 stupas, east united states map monasteries, caves and other sites have been excavated, turning up rare relics of the Buddha (usually east united states map pearl-like pieces of bone) with offerings such as golden flowers. Nagarjunakonda and Amaravathi were flourishing Buddhist complexes, and near Visakhapatnam were the incredibly peaceful sites of Thotlakonda, and Bavikonda and Sankaram, looking across seascapes and lush countryside. They speak of a time when Andhra Pradesh or Andhradesa was a hotbed of Buddhist activity, when monks came from around the world to learn from some of the tradition s most renowned teachers. Andhradesa s Buddhist culture, in which sangha (community of monks and nuns), laity and statespeople all took part, lasted around 1500 years from the 6th century BC. There s no historical evidence for it, but some even say that the Buddha himself visited the area. Andhradesa s first practitioners were likely disciples east united states map of Bavari, an ascetic who lived on the banks of the Godavari River and sent his followers north to bring back the Buddha s teachings. east united states map But the dharma really took off in the 3rd century BC under Ashoka, who dispatched monks across his empire to teach and construct stupas enshrined with relics of the Buddha. (Being near these was thought to help progress on the path to enlightenment.) Succeeding Ashoka, the Satavahanas and then Ikshvakus were also supportive. At their capital at Amaravathi, the Satavahanas adorned Ashoka s modest stupa with elegant decoration. east united states map They built monasteries across the Krishna Valley and exported the dharma through their sophisticated maritime network. It was also during the Satavahana reign that Nagarjuna lived. Considered by many to be the progenitor of Mahayana Buddhism, the monk was equal parts logician, philosopher and meditator, and he wrote several ground-breaking works that shaped contemporary Buddhist thought. Other important monk-philosophers would emerge from the area in the following centuries, making Andhradesa a sort of Buddhist motherland of the South. 1 Sights Fort FORT (Indian/foreigner 5/100; h9am-6.30pm) Warangal s fort was a massive construction with three distinct circular strongholds surrounded by a moat. Four paths with decorative gateways, set according to the cardinal points, led to the Swayambhava, a huge Shiva temple. The gateways are still obvious, but most of the fort is in ruins. It s easily reached from Warangal by bus or autorickshaw ( 200 return). Admission includes entry to nearby Kush Mahal, a 16th century royal hall with artefacts east united states map on display.

909MAJOR BUS ROUTES FROM HYDERABAD & SECUNDERABAD BUS NO ROUTE 65G/66G Charminar Golconda, via Abids 87 Charminar Nampally 2/2V, 8A/8U Charminar east united states map Secunderabad station 20D Jubilee station Nampally 142K Koti Golconda east united states map 119OR, 142M Nampally Golconda east united states map 1P/25 Secunderabad station east united states map Jubilee station 1K, 1B, 3SS, 40 Secunderabad station Koti 20P, 20V, 49, 49P Secunderabad station east united states map Nampally 909MAJOR BUS ROUTES FROM HYDERABAD & SECUNDERABAD BUS NO ROUTE 65G/66G Charminar Golconda, via Abids 87 Charminar Nampally 2/2V, 8A/8U Charminar Secunderabad station 20D Jubilee station Nampally 142K Koti Golconda 119OR, 142M Nampally Golconda 1P/25 Secunderabad station Jubilee station 1K, 1B, 3SS, 40 Secunderabad east united states map station Koti 20P, 20V, 49, 49P Secunderabad east united states map station Nampally

Hyderabad, City of Pearls, is like an elderly, impeccably dressed princess whose time has past. Once the seat of the powerful and wealthy Qutb Shahi and Asaf Jahi dynasties, the city has seen centuries of great prosperity and innovation. Today, the Old City is full of centuries-old Islamic monuments and even older charms. In fact, the whole city is laced with architectural gems: ornate tombs, mosques, palaces and homes from the past are tucked east united states map away, faded and enchanting, in corners all over town. Keep your eyes open.

ered in 1926 by archaeologist AR Saraswathi in the adjacent valley. In 1953, when it became known that a massive hydroelectric project would soon create the Nagarjuna Sagar reservoir, flooding the area, a six-year excavation was launched to unearth the area s many Buddhist ruins: east united states map stupas, viharas (monasteries), chaitya-grihas (assembly halls with stupas) and mandapas (pillared pavilions), as well as some outstanding examples of white-marble depictions of the Buddha s life. The finds were reassembled on Nagarjunakonda.