simple street maps and reliefs of the Buddha that span the Theravada, Mahayana and Vajrayana periods. Bojjannakonda has

Haritha Hotel HOTEL $$ (%2562333; Beach Rd, Appughar; r incl breakfast from 900; a) This APTDC hotel, formerly Punnami, is near Kailasagiri Hill and right across from the beach. The lowest-priced rooms (with no views) simple street maps are only so-so; bump yourself up if you can. Checkout is 10am.

Hotel Shadab INDIAN $$ (Map p900; High Court Rd, Patthargatti; mains 60250; hnoon-midnight) One meal at Shadab and you ll be forever under its spell. The hopping restaurant is the place to get biryani ( 95 to 200) and, during Ramzan (Ramadan), haleem. It has even mastered veg biryani (!) and hundreds of other veg and non-veg delights (if you try the chocolate

and reliefs of the Buddha that span the Theravada, Mahayana and Vajrayana periods. Bojjannakonda has a two-storey group of rock-cut caves fl anked by dwarapalakas (doorkeepers) and containing a stupa and gorgeous carvings of the Buddha (some restored). Atop the hill sit the ruins of a huge stupa and a monastery; you can still make out the individual cells where monks meditated. Lingalakonda is piled high with stupas, some of them enormous.