rest stops on mass pike considered amalgamation with Pakistan and then opted for sovereignty. Tensions between Muslims and H

considered amalgamation with Pakistan and then opted for sovereignty. Tensions between Muslims and Hindus increased, however, and military intervention saw Hyderabad join the Indian union in 1948. Sights Charminar MONUMENT (Four Towers; Map p900; Indian/foreigner 5/100; h9am-5.30pm) Hyderabad s principal landmark was built by Mohammed Quli Qutb Shah in 1591 to commemorate the founding of Hyderabad and the end of epidemics caused by Golconda s water shortage. The dramatic four-column, 56m high and 30m wide structure has four arches facing the cardinal rest stops on mass pike points. Minarets sit atop each column. The 2nd floor, home to Hyderabad s oldest mosque, and upper columns are not usually open to the public, but you can try your luck with the man with the key. The structure is illuminated from 7pm to 9pm.

Hyderabad is a city known for its love of good food, and locals take great pride in their city s off erings. Andhra Pradesh s cuisine has two major influences. The Mughals brought tasty biryanis, haleem (pounded, spiced wheat with goat or mutton) and kebabs. The Andhra rest stops on mass pike style is vegetarian and famous for its spiciness.

Once the Andhran capital and a significant Buddhist centre, Amaravathi is India s biggest stupa (Indian/foreigner 5/100; rest stops on mass pike h8am6pm), measuring 27m high and constructed in the 3rd century BC, when Emperor Ashoka sent monks south to spread the Buddha s teaching. Located 60km west of Vijayawada, all that remains are a mound and some stones, but the nearby museum (admission 5; h8am-5pm) has a small replica of the stupa, with its intricately carved pillars, marble- surfaced dome and carvings of scenes from the Buddha s life (no photography rest stops on mass pike allowed in the museum). In the courtyard is a reconstruction of part of the surrounding gateway, which gives you an idea of the stupa s massive scale. It s worth the trip, but many of Amaravathi s best sculptures are in London rest stops on mass pike s British Museum and Chennai s Government Museum in Tamil Nadu.

Andhra Pradesh Tourism Development Corporation (APTDC; %24-hr info 23450444; www.aptdc.in; h7am-8.30pm) Bashirbagh (Map p898 ; %23298456; NSF Shakar Bhavan, rest stops on mass pike opposite Police Control Room); Secunderabad (Map p896 ; %27893100; Yatri Nivas Hotel, Sardar Patel Rd); Tankbund Rd (Map p898 ; %65581555; h10.30am-5pm) Organises tours.