i 94 closure Down the hill and 3km to the right is the small Siddheshwara Temple. The Bhadrakali Temple, featurin

Vizag s train station is on the western edge of town, near the port. Visakhapatnam Junction station is on the Kolkata-Chennai line. The overnight Coromandel Express (sleeper/3AC/2AC 333/881/1199, 13 hours) is the fastest of the five daily trains running to Kolkata. Heading south, it goes to Chennai (sleeper/3AC/2AC 310/817/1112, 14 hours). Frequent trains head to Vijayawada including 2717, the Ratnachalam Express (2nd-class/chair 108/477).

C Courses Dhamma Vijaya MEDITATION (Vipassana Meditation Centre; %08812-225522; www.dhamma.org; Eluru-Chintalapudi Rd) Offers intensive 10-day vipassana meditation courses free of charge in lush palm- and cocoa-forested grounds. The centre is 15km from Eluru; call for details.

Down the hill and 3km to the right is the small Siddheshwara Temple. The Bhadrakali Temple, featuring a stone statue i 94 closure of Kali seated with a weapon in each of her eight hands, is high on a hill between Hanamkonda and Warangal.

Taj Mahal Hotel HOTEL $$ (Map p898; %24758250; tajmahal_abid@rediffmail. com; cnr Abids & King Kothi Rds; s/d with AC from 1200/1650; a) This rambling 1924 heritage building has a magnificent exterior, plants peppered about and decent, though ultimately overpriced rooms. Each is different so ask to see a few: the better ones have boudoirs, crystal-knobbed armoires and wood-beam ceilings.